Streets are brimming with pilgrims men and women with their families, ascetics and godmen all have come from far-flung areas to pay their respects to their deity, Lord Rama. The beggars and local shopkeepers live of this religious tourism here. Lanes are dotted with small souvenir shops that sell photos of temples, shirts with Gods prints, key-rings, bangles, and what not. Sounds like a normal pilgrim centre. However, something sets this Holy Land apart from other religious places of the country. And that is the unprecedented presence of police and security personnel here. This feature of the town constantly reminds one of its violent past. Every little street leads to a temple, for this is the temple town with immense religious significance. Welcome to Ayodhya!

I have fond memories of Ayodhya, as I spent my childhood years in its sister city - Faizabad. But my return to this town after 12 years was something altogether different. When I had booked the rail tickets, I had plans to spend some time meeting my old friends in the city and maybe do a photo-feature on the fort-temples of the town. However, by the time I boarded the train, news was abuzz that the right-wing religious organization, the Vishwa Hindu Parishad (VHP), a sister organization of the ruling Bharatiya Janata Party, was planning a big gathering of Rama-worshippers also known as Ram-bhakts to take the oath that they will die but build a temple at the disputed site. The police had sealed off the twin cities of Faizabad and Ayodhya. No one was allowed to enter. Buses and trains were diverted. But I decided to carry on with my plans and reached Faizabad with the help of my uncle who arranged a pass for my travel.

I had to alight from the train at Lucknow, some 100 km from Faizabad. The drive from Lucknow to Faizabad normally takes about three hours owing to the heavy traffic. However, this time it took me only about an-hour-and-half, for the roads were void of traffic. The only stops were those for security checks, which were abundant.

The dispute at Ayodhya is centered at the Babri Masjid. The complex has been disputed for the last five centuries. The Mosque was constructed by Mir Baqi in 1528 to please Muslim ruler Babar. Hindus believe that a temple was demolished in order to construct the mosque. And it was not just an ordinary temple. It is said to be the birthplace of Lord Rama who has about the same status as Christ in the Western world. However, Muslims claim the mosque was built on virgin land. On December 6, 1992, Hindu fanatics, belonging to the VHP, descended on the mosque and demolished it. Ever since, the issue has generated much unrest in the country, often leading to clashes between Hindus and Muslims. The case now lies in the hands of the court.

My journey to the venue for the oath-taking ceremony was an ordeal in itself. The police would not let my car proceed towards Ayodhya. With a press card in tow, I was allowed to move ahead, but without the car! So I joined a group of mediapersons and we requested for a lift from an Army truck, which obliged. Soon we were all standing at the back of the truck! We were dropped on the outskirts of Ayodhya and from there started a two-kilometer walk to the venue - Karsevak Puram.

The stage had been set for taking an oath for the construction of temple. The country was abuzz that Ram-bhakts (devotees of Lord Ram) would be staging a protest at the temple town. Their demand: A temple be built at the disputed site. Thousands had gathered in and around the twin cities despite the administrations efforts to prevent their entry. Many had walked through the surrounding villages, along the railway tracks, on foot. Others sneaked in by swimming across the Saryu river at night. Ram-sevaks were full of enthusiasm and were looking forward to the days proceeding a march for temple. "I am here to support the temple issue. This is Ram's birthplace and thus we want a mandir," said Ramesh. "We just want a temple and it is legitimate. This land belongs to the Hindus and there is no question of leaving it with the Muslims," added Priyadarshan, who had come from Agra to participate in the proceedings. "I only want a temple. My son died in 1992 for the cause, his soul will be peaceful once the temple is constructed," said Kamla Behen, the bereaved mother of Kapil, who was killed in the melee following the destruction of the mosque in 1992. "Its a do or die situation for us. Our demand for temple is legitimate." Said Keshav, another supporter.

Even the people of Ayodhya echo a similar sentiment. The locals here have been the worst sufferers of the temple movement. The tourism trade, their main means of subsistence, has been on a steep decline and day-to-day Hindu-Muslim clashes in the country generate a sense of insecurity for them. They want an end to this dispute. But, not at the cost of temple! "Everyday clashes are a problem for us,. Children cannot go to school and our shops are closed down," said Meera, a local resident. "Yes, the dispute does create trouble for us, but that does not mean we should give up the demand. We Hindus rightly deserve to build a temple here," said Bhanu Prasad, another localite.

However, the moot question is, how far do religious disputes like that of the Ram Janmabhoomi hold any good for a sound relationship between any two religions? And, to what extent should such disputes influence the politics and people of any country? There are many more such disputed places in India and the world over, like Gyanvapi at Banaras or Bhoja Shala at Dhar. Even the site of the Buddhist shrine at Bodh Gaya has been reeling under dispute for over centuries. The Dome of Rock at Jerusalem holds a dispute between the Jews and Muslims. If we find solution to one dispute, many more may come into forefront and lead to more strife across the world. As a responsible citizen of the world, the people should unite and fight together in the good for humanity instead of fighting for petty issues that lead to internal strife. Its about time our leaders understood the significance of universal brotherhood and applied it to the mankinds advantage.